MAJORCA: a new playground
Despite a very hot year in 2022, autumn is here and the water temperature in the canyons of the Ossau Valley is starting to cool down.
We take advantage of the end of the season to jump on a boat from Barcelona to .... MAJORQUE ! This will be an opportunity to sunbathe on the beach with your toes outstretched and to discover a new and seemingly endless playground!
SEASIDE CLIMBING
Psicobloc
Chris SHARMAthe most famous climber of the 2000s, has made a major contribution to the reputation of the largest of the Balearic islands, notably through his film " KING LINES "where he achieved an extreme route on Es Pontas Arch. Indeed, Mallorca is an incredible destination for the 'newcomer'. psicobloc "(solo climbing above the sea). We put on our shoes and discover the main area of Psicobloc, on the east side of the island: "Cala Varques".
Equipped Tracks
However, if you are not a fan of falling into the water from several metres high, Majorca is full of equipped areas for sport climbing, also by the sea.
These are ideal places to spend the day with your family where everyone will find something to their liking, between beach and rocks. We discover two of them: "Cala Magraner", very close to "Cala Varques", and later on during our stay the cliff of S'Atalaia, on the other side of the island from "Port de Soller". Nice areas to climb despite the fact that the tracks are a little worn out from use.
We're not going to be picky either, given the idyllic setting of the sectors ! And these are just one example of the many coastal cliffs to discover.
BIG ROUTE CLIMBING AT THE GATES OF THE TRAMUNTANA
One morning we set off for the village of Bunyola, at the foot of the Serra Tramuntana, where we were charmed by the magnificent walls of almost 200 metres. 30 minutes of walking after leaving the vehicles, we reach the foot of the cliffs of the "Sa Gubia" sector, we put on our boots and harnesses for 6 lengths of pure Majorcan limestone. "La ley del deseo" (no higher than 6a) gets us going and we finish the route by going up a ridge full of atmosphere to the top of the mountain. Back at the foot of the routes we continue with the "Princessa" route in 6c max.
Rather vertical climbing and incredible grip ! The wall opposite attracts us like a shoe magnet and we finish the discovery with some 30m pitches in 7b 7b+ on columns and tilt.
A varied climb where there is nothing to throw away!
TOP DESTINATION FOR CANYONING
The day after our arrival on the island, a steady rain filled the canyons to our delight. Indeed Majorca had a very hot and dry summer, as on the mainland, and the rivers were rather low or even dry.
This miraculous water will push us to put on the neoprene to go visit the magical gorges of "Gorg Blau" and "Sa Fosca". Note that this rainy day will be the only one of the trip, for the sun lovers (be reassured!).
Gorg Blau" canyon is an international reference in terms of canyoning, we had heard a lot about it before our stay, and its reputation is not overrated! An incredible environment amazes us with every step! The first part, "Gorg Blau", is announced in the guidebook as taking 3 hours.
We discover a magnificent collection and abseiling and jumping as we go deeper and deeper into these narrow gorges. The second part, "Sa Fosca", announced in 2h30, is the section that gives this canyon its reputation.
Indeed, the walls are so high and close together that the light no longer reaches the bottom of the canyon. We therefore have to use headlamps for this part of the route, which seriously spices up the adventure! At the exit of "Sa Fosca", we arrive at the confluence of the "Pareis", a dry torrent this time.
We follow this canyon for almost 2 hours to reach a very famous and touristic cirque, open to the seaat the level of "Sa Calobra". It is the return to civilization after This timeless journey through the magnificent nature of Mallorca.
I look forward to showing you this beautiful island!
Yann Bernier
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